Don’t Get Ticked Off!

Written by Nick Winters. Posted in Tips

Hikers and bikers take note! Spring is in full swing in the Wenatchee Valley and we have been receiving reports that the warm weather has made ticks appear in the lowlands. Ticks crawl up short plants and wait for animals or hikers to pass by.  They have fine claw like hooks on their legs that allows them to cling to your pet or your clothing.

Where To Look

Ticks will latch on anywhere, but some common areas to look are on your furry friend’s neck, ears, and under arm. If your pet does get a tick you should apply slow traction to the insect’s body and eventually they will come free. Ask us about tick prevention on your next visit, we have several very effective remedies that can help! Some are medications, which are very useful since finding all ticks on thick coated animals can sometimes be challenging, not to mention time consuming! 

Ticks can transmit several diseases so they should be removed promptly.

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Pet Dental Health Month Through March

Written by Nick Winters. Posted in Promotions

Cats need dental cleanings too! Good thing dental health month is extended through March! Give us a call at (509) 663-6542 and schedule your pets next appointment to claim your discount!

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Puppy training tips

Written by Nick Winters. Posted in Puppy Tips

Training your new puppy can seem like a lot of work, but it can also be very rewarding too. It’s important to start out training your puppy in a quiet area with few distractions and work up to more public places as obedience becomes more reliable.

• Keep sessions short (5 min), and lengthen them as the pup gets older, with a longer attention span.
• Be precise and use the same commands every time.
• Give each command only once.
• Avoid double commands such as “sit down” to avoid confusing your pup.
• Practice a little each day and build obedience into your every day routine (e.g. puppy sites and waits for things he wants like treats, walks, etc., or Puppy does down-stay at your side while you eat breakfast).
• Discourage puppy from chewing things other than toys; say NO! firmly and as soon as Puppy quits, offer him a toy, then praise him as he starts to chew the toy. (Note: puppies are generally teething and are notorious chewers between 4-6 months of age, so provide plenty of safe chew toys and don’t leave your pup alone with your furniture or other valuables)!
• Discourage excessive barking: use the “enough” command to stop this behavior. If Pup ignores you and continues to bark, give a quick leash pop if on leash or interrupt barking with a noise correction method such as shaking a can full of pennies. Each time you shake the can, repeat “enough” in order to teach the command. Praise him as soon as the barking stops.
• Leash training: be gentle and make it fun! Let your pup drag the leash, then let him lead you, and finally put gentle pressure on the leash to lead him. If he balks, crouch and call/entice toys and treats. If he balks again or panics, go back to step One.
• Take your puppy for car rides in good weather, but never leave any animal alone in a car during warm weather. Also never transport a puppy/dog unrestrained in the back of a truck.

Note: puppies generally go through “Fear periods” from 8-10 weeks of age and not at 16-24 weeks. During these periods, your pup may suddenly act scared of things that formerly didn’t spook him. Do not pet your pup and coo to him when he is acting scared (as natural as this seems). Your pup will interpret your behavior as saying there is something to be afraid of and will become more fearful. Instead, act nonchalant and ignore the puppy’s fearful reaction (sending the message that this “monster” is nothing to be afraid of). Be careful not to expose your pup to anything too new and scary during these vulnerable periods.

• It’s ok to spoil your pup—just be sure to train it too!
• Before your pup finishes his vaccinations, socialize him by inviting guests (especially kids) over to your house to cuddle and gently play with your pup. Have guests remove their shoes outside your door to lessen the risk of them transmitting parvovirus to your pup via contaminated shoe soles.
• After your pup finishes his vaccinations, consider enrolling him in a local obedience training class or continue training it at home with books/videos until he knows his basic commands. Then practice in public places like parks, playgrounds, etc. This way, he learns to obey you even when there are interesting distractions around. Have friendly strangers pet him. Arrange “puppy parties” with friends who have healthy, vaccinated, friendly dogs. Take your pup to willing friends’ homes and anywhere you can safely accustom him to traveling and being comfortable in new places.
• Dogs are pack animals. Your puppy needs and wants you (even when he is acting like a bratty teenager) to be a clear, firm, loving leader. If you do not lead your puppy, he will try to lead you and that’s when the problems start (e.g. Biting/running away, struggling when being groomed, etc.).
• There are many different methods for training your pup. Use methods that make sense to you, are clear and fair, and won’t harm your pup mentally or physically. Have fun, keep things simple and be patient. Reward frequently with play, toys, treats, petting and praise! Be gentle, firm, consistent.
• Never hit your puppy- with your hand or anything else (recycle the rolled up newspaper!) Generally a sharp “No!” and a hard stare will stop your pup’s naughtiness. If your pup is very naughty (growls/nips) a leash correction (a short, quick jerk and release) should get your point across. Do not hesitate to call a professional trainer for help if you cannot seem to correct your pup on your own. Many behavioral problems can be prevented or corrected if they are addressed early.
• Use games to keep it fun: once your pup has a grasp on his commands, use games to reinforce and make training fun. Use “hide and seek” by pup sit-stay while a partner hides, then release the pup with “ok” to find the person hiding.
• Above all, spend as much time with your puppy as possible, especially during his first year. Your goal should be to build a close, solid, trusting relationship with your puppy. This is the foundation of any good training program and will lead to a life-long rewarding relationship between you and your dog. All the effort you put into your pup during this time will come back to you many times over during his lifetime!

Teach his/her name

Reward him every time you say his name and he looks at you. Call it each time you feed him (even if he is standing next to you).

Handle daily

Get him/her used to being gently groomed and examined. Gradually work toward being able to look in his ears, eyes and mouth. Handle his entire body, especially his feet. Begin grooming him by brushing his hair, teeth and trimming his toenails. Use treats, praise and play as rewards. Have your friends handle your puppy in the same manner so that he will not be traumatized by his first visits to the veterinarian and groomer.

Introduce your puppy to his crate

you can begin by feeding him near, then in, his crate and putting toys in the crate. The crate is his “room”. Ideally, your pup should sleep in his crate in your room at night. The crate can then be moved into other rooms during the day and can travel with you on trips. Establish a housebreaking routine immediately using a crate and strict feeding/exercise/playing schedule. It is extremely important to put every effort into properly housebreaking your pup. It can be difficult to retrain an adult dog that was not properly housebroken as a puppy.

Teach to accept petting while eating

Your pup should allow you to handle his food dish while he is eating. Begin by putting treats into his dish while he is eating. When your pup accepts this, briefly take his dish and add a treat to it (within the puppy’s view) so he views your hands in his food dish as a good thing. Have your child do this exercise (with your careful supervision). In fact, if possible, have your kids take turns feeding the puppy.

Discourage mouthing

Say “ouch” loudly and snatch your hand away, giving your pup the idea that human skin is very delicate. If this doesn’t work, say “No” loudly, flick the pup under its chin with your finger, immediately offer a chew toy and praise pup for mouthing it, instead of your hand.

Teach to stay alone

Exercise your pup before you leave to tire him, then after taking it out to relieve itself, leave Pup in his crate or pen with some interesting toys. Leave for short periods at first, gradually lengthening the time you are gone. Keep your departures and arrivals low key; making them “no big deal” to your pup. You can also try leaving the radio/TV on for company or hire a responsible kid to come play with your pup if you are going to be gone for several hours.

Download the complete New Puppy Handbook

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How to housebreak your puppy

Written by Nick Winters. Posted in Puppy Tips, Tips

• Keep a bottle of good pet accident cleaner on hand (check with your veterinarian’s office or your local pet stores, catalogs, etc). If you are able to raise your pup with no accidents in your house, contact the Guinness Book of World Records!
• Adhere to a fairly strict schedule of feeding/walking/crating/playing until your pup is becoming reliable (5-6 months of age for most pups). DO NOT allow a young pup unrestricted access to your house while you are away or distracted; accidents WILL happen! Use the crate and puppy pen when you can’t watch him. Don’t leave your pup crated for more than a couple hours at a time. Use the puppy pen if you have to be gone for several hours.
• Take puppy out IMMEDIATELY after naps/walks/play and eating or drinking. Give commands such as “potty” and praise Pup when he eliminates in the desired location.
• Avoid free choice feeding. Feeding your pup scheduled meals will help with housebreaking-what goes in must come out-usually sooner rather than later!
• There WILL be a few “accidents” while your pup is young and doesn’t yet have full bladder and bowel control. If you catch your pup in the act say “NO”, quickly transport him to the toileting area and praise warmly when he finishes there. NEVER discipline your pup by hitting him with a newspaper or rubbing his nose in the excrement. This will not teach your pup anything and will frighten him and undermine his confidence in you as a benevolent leader.
• If your pup has an accident while you are not looking, DO NOT attempt to correct it after the fact. Your puppy is a baby with a short attention span and will have no idea why he is being punished.

Sample Housebreaking Schedule by Carol Benjamin

7:00 am

1. Walk Puppy
2. Offer food & water
3. Walk puppy
4. Puppy plays while you make coffee & try to wake up
5. Puppy goes into crate to rest

10:00 am

1. Walk puppy
2. Puppy plays in kitchen or den for about fifteen minutes at first, then for more and more time each week.
3. Crate puppy

1:00 pm

1. Feed puppy
2. Walk puppy
3. Play with puppy indoors or out
4. Crate puppy

4:00 pm

1. Kids (If you don’t have any, borrow some) walk puppy & play with puppy until everyone is tired & quiet. If you don’t have or can’t borrow kids — you’re elected!
2. Feed puppy by 5:00pm in order to help it get through the night without accident.
3. Walk puppy
4. Play with puppy
5. Puppy plays with toys in kitchen while dinner is being prepared.

7:00 pm

1. Walk puppy
2. Play with puppy
3. Crate puppy

11:00 pm

1. Walk puppy
2. Crate puppy overnight in your room

Download the complete New Puppy Handbook

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Teaching your dog commands

Written by Nick Winters. Posted in Puppy Tips, Tips

Teaching your dog commands is one of the many steps in obedience training. Learning new commands can be rewarding for both you and your puppy.  It will take repetition, dedication, and sometimes a little determination, but ultimately it will lead to a better relationship between you and your pet.

Basic Commands

It’s easy to toss around all kinds of words or phrases for the same command, especially if you live with other people. However, it’s very important that all of the individuals involved in your dogs life are consistent with the same set of commands in order to eliminate confusion and not prolong to learning process.

Below are a list of commonly used commands:

“NO” An obvious one! Means “stop whatever you are doing!”

“OK” A release word – used to end training session/release Pup from stay.

“ENOUGH” Means “what you were doing is OK but now I want you to stop”. Useful to stop barking, playing rowdy games, etc.

“LEAVE IT” Means “Leave it alone!”-Useful for getting your dog to leave food on the ground, the neighbor’s cat or that kid with a cookie in his hand alone.

“OFF” Means “Get your paws off the furniture/guests/baby gate” etc.

“SIT” Pup should be taught to “sit” and “wait” for treats, before going out the front door, while food dish is being put down, etc. Have puppy sit when company first arrives to short-circuit jumping.

“COME” Puppy should learn to respond to your voice and come even when it can’t see you.

“DOWN” A down stay is a great exercise to gently but effectively reinforce your leadership status and calm a crazy adolescent pup!

“STAY” Means “Don’t move!” Your pup can shift its weight and look around but can’t get up to leave or change positions (i.e. a sit to a down). Excellent exercise for reinforcing your dominance and can even save your dog’s life. This is one of the hardest exercises for a young pup and you may want to save it until last. Be patient but insist that your puppy stay put when you tell him to!

“WAIT” is a less formal version of stay can be taught early on-it means you can sit/stand or wiggle around but basically stay in the same spot.

“HEEL” Walk by my side.

Speeding up the learning process

The best way to speed up the learning process is with training treats and daily repetition. Spend at least 15 minutes a day focusing on one command. Your dog will catch on pretty quick when they learn you have treats. Once they are consistent with treats, start giving the same commands with treats half the time and without treats the other half. Ultimately you will wean your pup off of the prize and they will consistently be looking to you for direction.

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Pet Dental Hygiene

Written by Nick Winters. Posted in Tips

Did you know that by age 3-4, many dogs already have periodontal disease? Preventive dental care is just as important for your pet as it is for people, yet it is one of the most neglected health needs of animals. Periodontal disease is caused by a buildup of plaque and tartar on the teeth. This results in inflammation, infection of the gums, and loosening of the teeth.

Proper home care is the most important factor in protecting your pet’s oral health. Feed a proper diet (dry food) to stimulate the gums and reduce the build-up of plaque and tartar. Brushing their teeth is also very helpful.

Two considerations get in the way of brushing your pet’s teeth:

1. You don’t want to do it.
2. Your pet doesn’t want it done.

But don’t worry, you brush your own teeth, don’t you? It is part of your routine and that’s how you should approach the challenge with your pet. First, understand brushing must be done on a regular basis, (at least every other day) to be of any value. In fact, daily brushing is best, since plaque mineralizes into calculus in 24-48 hours. Try to create a habitual routine by choosing an appropriate time and place. Do your best to make brushing fun; pick a time when both of you are relaxed and use lots of praise for your pet.

When first introducing your pet to tooth brushing, start slowly. First touch your pet’s muzzle to help relax him. Gently pull the lips back and expose all of the teeth, eventually stroking the gums and teeth. Use a dog toothpaste (not a human product) and pediatric toothbrush, or we carry toothbrush kits at the clinic. To help introduce having a toothbrush in their mouth, use a small amount of paste and brush in a circular motion. Remember that the accumulations of plaque and calculus are greatest on the side of a pet’s teeth facing the cheek. This is where the salivary gland duct openings are.

Some signs that your pet may have dental problems are: they may have bad breath, are not eating well, they chew on only one side of their mouth, and food may fall out of their mouth when eating. Infected teeth allow bacteria into the bloodstream as well as potentially cause damage in the kidneys and other organs. Certain breeds of dogs seem to be prone to periodontal disease, including poodles, schnauzers, terriers, pomeranians, plus any breed of geriatric animal. If you take dental care seriously when your pet is young, you can prevent problems and allow your pet to keep a full set of teeth throughout his life. But even if your pet is older, correcting dental problems to whatever degree possible will give you a happier, healthier pet.

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What are safe toys for puppies?

Written by Nick Winters. Posted in Puppy Tips

Shopping for safe puppy toys

Check with your veterinarian (Kong toys and nylabones that are size appropriate for your puppy are generally safe). Look at local pet stores or in pet catalogs for toys that cannot be chewed apart and ingested, possibly causing choking/digestive upset or intestinal blockage. (e.g. squeaky toys can be dangerous if your pup is allowed to play with them unsupervised).

One tip is to stick treats such as kibble, peanut butter or cheese in the center of a Kong toy to keep your pup busy while you are away. Don’t overdo the high fat treats however; another option is to freeze the Kong and treat so it takes longer for your pup to lick it clean. There is also a toy called a “buster cube” that can be filled with kibble and left with the pup for entertainment (the pup will paw/roll the cube to get the kibble out). Be careful with rope toys. Some dogs will chew and ingest large chunks of them. ALWAYS supervise your pup with a new toy (even one labeled ‘indestructible’).

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Choosing the best dog collar and leash for your puppy

Written by Nick Winters. Posted in Puppy Tips

Good choices are a nylon or rolled leather collar to hold an identification tag and braided nylon training (slip) collar for preliminary obedience work (Note: never leave a training collar on your puppy when you are not home. Your puppy could catch the end of the collar on something and injure or choke himself.) A lightweight nylon show lead (6 feet) is nice to start with for a young pup, moving to a leather lead (6 ft) and a metal or nylon training collar as the puppy grows. An alternative to the traditional training collar is a head collar such as a gentle leader or halter.

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The best food & water bowls for new puppies

Written by Nick Winters. Posted in Puppy Tips

For new puppies, it’s best to try and find tip-proof bowls. Heavy, ceramic, or stainless steel are ideal. Breeds with long, floppy ears may do best with specially tapered bowls. Avoid plastic bowls if you can.

Other options include bowls that come with a stand so that no tipping can occur. If you do choose a set with a stand, make sure that it’s low enough so that your puppy doesn’t have any difficulty eating or drinking.

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Choosing the right puppy food

Written by Nick Winters. Posted in Puppy Tips

It’s important that you select a high quality puppy food. At Countryside Veterinary Clinic, we currently carry and recommend Science Diet. It is always a good idea to check with your veterinarian to find out what diet would be appropriate for your puppy. If you are getting a puppy from a breeder, find out what the breeder is feeding. If you want to change your puppy’s diet, do so gradually, mixing the new diet with the food the breeder was feeding for about a week to avoid upsetting the puppy’s digestive system.

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